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September 05, 2007

  

2007 September - Agawa canyon, Ontario, Canada

Posted by zvoni00

2007 Labor Day weekend: Ontario, Canada.

Team: Anton Karnoup, Brad Reinke, Kristi Jeske, Stephanie Gottlob, Yuji Oka.
Climbing team (Agawa canyon route): Anton Karnoup (leader), Brad Reinke.
Route: south face of a cliff in Agawa canyon, near Burnt Rock pool area; 5.7 X trad, approx. 800 ft (~250 m), 5 long pitches. Followed a central crack system and chimney.

photo report: http://public.fotki.com/ASK1/2007-labor-day---on/

I will write it up (at Dima Eremin's request, and also at some trip member's reqiest) later, and post at this site. Keep checking. Regards. Anton

=====================================================================

Da, vot ochen' kratkaja svodka:

0. Novyi marshrut (1st ascent). Podxod obeschal byt' neprijatnym. Pervaja popytka byla u nas v Aprele 2007, no nas togda zasypalo kamniami, i u nas bylo malo vremeni.

1. My prishli pod marshrut v subboty vecherom, predvaritel'no polaziv pol-dnja na Ranwick Rock (5.7 - 5.10 sport/trad routes). Pereshli rechku (Agawa river) vbrod, postavili palatku, xoroshen'ko zakusili (chicken fajitas -- kudos to Kristi), vypili butylku klubnichogo likera, potom esche chto-to pili... Noch' byla zharkaja (v smysle temperatury vozduxa).

2. Utrom vstali, popili chai, ja svaril grechku s kurinymi konservamu -- ona ne imela bol'shogo uspexa u moix amerikanskix tovarischei (nu -- vsem ne ugodish'...).

3. Poperlis' po lesu i kustam k skale: kuda idem -- ni xrena ne vidno. Kompas ja zabyl v mashine. V kakoi-to moment, kogda stalo kruto i posypalis' kakie-to kamni, troe soprovozhdajuschix (Kristi, Steph, Yuji) povernuli obratno (skazali, chto budut lovit' rybu v rechke), a my s Brad'om, s matjukami, poperlis' dal'she.

4. Shli, shli... I vot... Uvideli nad golovoi chistoe Canadskoe nebo. Vot, blin!!! My vziali slishkom kruto vlevo (ne vidno zhe ni xrena, i kompas ja zabyl) i v itoge zalezli na nash pupyr' prosto po lesu, v obxod texnicheskoi skaly. Nu ladno... poshli vdol' kraja... Nu vot i nash marshrut!!!

5. Poskol'ku my uzhe naverxu, my reshili dul'fernut' obratno vniz, a potom prolezt' kak i zadumyvali. Tak i sdelali.

6. Kogda my byli vnizu i uzhe vot-vot polezli po marshrutu, polil dozhd'. Vot blin!!! A ved' v prognoze pogody pro dozhd' nichego ne bylo! Posideli chasa 2 pod "otritsatel'noi" stenkoi, sozhrali po buterbrodu.

7. Dozhd' ne tol'ko ne konchilsia, a polil esche sil'nee. Podozhdali esche: vot vrode by pereryv v dozhde. OK. Polezli. (A kamni, suki, skol'zkie!)

8. Proshli dva uchastka (2 pitches), i dozhd' polil s novoi siloi. V treschine gde my byli, obrazovalsia vodopadets. Podozhdali esche nemnogo. Dozhd' snova poutix.

9. Proshli esche odin uchastok (~40 m), ja postavil "belay station", i prinial partnera k sebe. Tut ja reshil chto xochu polezt' po treschine poslozhnee (na vid ~ 5.10; a glavnoe -- ona suxaja byla), i polez. Primerno cherez 10 m (and after 2 cam placements) u menia iz-pod pravoi ruki upal bol'shoi kamen' -- xorosho chto Brad, straxuja menia, stojal v nebol'shoi pescherke.

10. No kamen' "udachno" udaril po verevke i perebil ee, kak nozhom (ostalos' tol'ko 2-3 tonen'kie nitochki). Brad skazal volshebnoe slovo "Fuck!", zaviazal na perebitom meste "vos'merku" ("figure 8 knot"), ja zabil dva krjuka, i Bdad opustil menia obratno k stancii. Interesno, chto verevka byla perebita pochti tochno na otmetke "30 m". Esche bolee interesno, chto v Aprele, na toi zhe skale, kogda nas tozhe obsypalo kamniami, nasha verevka byla tozhe perebita, i tozhe rovno popolam (!!!). Teorija verojatnosti otdyxaet.

11. Dal'she polezli kak poprosche (~ 5.7). Doshli do kontsa. Dul'fernuli vniz. Kogda my byli v "lagere", uzhe smerkalos'.

12. Nashi kompanjony uzhe ushli obratno (iz kanyona v izbushku (The Mad Moose lodge)), i na nashe schast'je sobrali palatku zaxvatili s soboi bOl'shuju chast' veschei. Oni videli kak my spuskalis' so skaly, i reshili nam pomoch'. Ogromnoe vam spasibo, tovarischi !

13. Pereshli rechku, cherez 2 chasa byli u mashiny, esche cherez 30 min byli v izbushke. Pili mnogo vina i piva, eli mnogo edy (Yuji poimal-taki 4 foreli, my ix zazharili i s'jeli). Ja spal na polu pod stolom. Utrom mne dolozhili, chto nad bezdyxannym mnoi nochju izdevalas' mestnaja mysh': xodila po mne svoimi lapami i njuxala menia. Ja ne znaju pravda eto ili net.

14. Utrom nemnogo bolela golova.

15. Proveli den' na Montreal River Point (top-rope, 5.8-5.12). Kupalis' v ozere (lake Superior). Bylo xorosho.

16. Poexali domoi. Vot i vse.

17. Vot sizhu ja sedodnia na rabote, i dumaju: kak xorosho bylo, i kak protivno segodnia rabotat'.


A. Karnoup
September 5, 2007.

Comments

Da, vot ochen' kratkaja svodka:

0. Novyi marshrut (1st ascent). Podxod obeschal byt' neprijatnym. Pervaja popytka byla u nas v Aprele 2007, no nas togda zasypalo kamniami, i u nas bylo malo vremeni.

1. My prishli pod marshrut v subboty vecherom, predvaritel'no polaziv pol-dnja na Ranwick Rock (5.7 - 5.10 sport/trad routes). Pereshli rechku (Agawa river) vbrod, postavili palatku, xoroshen'ko zakusili (chicken fajitas -- kudos to Kristi), vypili butylku klubnichogo likera, potom esche chto-to pili... Noch' byla zharkaja (v smysle temperatury vozduxa).

2. Utrom vstali, popili chai, ja svaril grechku s kurinymi konservamu -- ona ne imela bol'shogo uspexa u moix amerikanskix tovarischei (nu -- vsem ne ugodish'...).

3. Poperlis' po lesu i kustam k skale: kuda idem -- ni xrena ne vidno. Kompas ja zabyl v mashine. V kakoi-to moment, kogda stalo kruto i posypalis' kakie-to kamni, troe soprovozhdajuschix (Kristi, Steph, Yuji) povernuli obratno (skazali, chto budut lovit' rybu v rechke), a my s Brad'om, s matjukami, poperlis' dal'she.

4. Shli, shli... I vot... Uvideli nad golovoi chistoe Canadskoe nebo. Vot, blin!!! My vziali slishkom kruto vlevo (ne vidno zhe ni xrena, i kompas ja zabyl) i v itoge zalezli na nash pupyr' prosto po lesu, v obxod texnicheskoi skaly. Nu ladno... poshli vdol' kraja... Nu vot i nash marshrut!!!

5. Poskol'ku my uzhe naverxu, my reshili dul'fernut' obratno vniz, a potom prolezt' kak i zadumyvali. Tak i sdelali.

6. Kogda my byli vnizu i uzhe vot-vot polezli po marshrutu, polil dozhd'. Vot blin!!! A ved' v prognoze pogody pro dozhd' nichego ne bylo! Posideli chasa 2 pod "otritsatel'noi" stenkoi, sozhrali po buterbrodu.

7. Dozhd' ne tol'ko ne konchilsia, a polil esche sil'nee. Podozhdali esche: vot vrode by pereryv v dozhde. OK. Polezli. (A kamni, suki, skol'zkie!)

8. Proshli dva uchastka (2 pitches), i dozhd' polil s novoi siloi. V treschine gde my byli, obrazovalsia vodopadets. Podozhdali esche nemnogo. Dozhd' snova poutix.

9. Proshli esche odin uchastok (~40 m), ja postavil "belay station", i prinial partnera k sebe. Tut ja reshil chto xochu polezt' po treschine poslozhnee (na vid ~ 5.10; a glavnoe -- ona suxaja byla), i polez. Primerno cherez 10 m (and after 2 cam placements) u menia iz-pod pravoi ruki upal bol'shoi kamen' -- xorosho chto Brad, straxuja menia, stojal v nebol'shoi pescherke.

10. No kamen' "udachno" udaril po verevke i perebil ee, kak nozhom (ostalos' tol'ko 2-3 tonen'kie nitochki). Brad skazal volshebnoe slovo "Fuck!", zaviazal na perebitom meste "vos'merku" ("figure 8 knot"), ja zabil dva krjuka, i Bdad opustil menia obratno k stancii. Interesno, chto verevka byla perebita pochti tochno na otmetke "30 m". Esche bolee interesno, chto v Aprele, na toi zhe skale, kogda nas tozhe obsypalo kamniami, nasha verevka byla tozhe perebita, i tozhe rovno popolam (!!!). Teorija verojatnosti otdyxaet.

11. Dal'she polezli kak poprosche (~ 5.7). Doshli do kontsa. Dul'fernuli vniz. Kogda my byli v "lagere", uzhe smerkalos'.

12. Nashi kompanjony uzhe ushli obratno (iz kanyona v izbushku (The Mad Moose lodge)), i na nashe schast'je sobrali palatku zaxvatili s soboi bOl'shuju chast' veschei. Oni videli kak my spuskalis' so skaly, i reshili nam pomoch'. Ogromnoe vam spasibo, tovarischi !

13. Pereshli rechku, cherez 2 chasa byli u mashiny, esche cherez 30 min byli v izbushke. Pili mnogo vina i piva, eli mnogo edy (Yuji poimal-taki 4 foreli, my ix zazharili i s'jeli). Ja spal na polu pod stolom. Utrom mne dolozhili, chto nad bezdyxannym mnoi nochju izdevalas' mestnaja mysh': xodila po mne svoimi lapami i njuxala menia. Ja ne znaju pravda eto ili net.

14. Utrom nemnogo bolela golova.

15. Proveli den' na Montreal River Point (top-rope, 5.8-5.12). Kupalis' v ozere (lake Superior). Bylo xorosho.

16. Poexali domoi. Vot i vse.

17. Vot sizhu ja sedodnia na rabote, i dumaju: kak xorosho bylo, i kak protivno segodnia rabotat'.


A. Karnoup
September 5, 2007.

Posted by: Anton Karnoup at September 5, 2007 07:23 PM

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